For Sale: Eunos Roadster

28 02 2011

I’ve had a blast with the Roadster.  It’s been the most fun I’ve ever had on 4 wheels, and I’m going to miss her when she’s gone.  However, new jobs where both me and my other half are commuting from Manchester to North Wales each day, combined with childcare problems with only one of us able to do the drop off and pick up at school, means that she’s up for sale.  Hopefully to a good home.

On the plus side, my sensible family transport that replaces it is a 2004 Audi TT with 265BHP, £1500 of Tarox brakes, a blue Haldex upgrade and Neuspeed ARBs all round.  Some consolation.

For Sale:  Eunos Roadster – G-Limited.

1994, 1.8i, 44,000 miles with long tax/MOT.  Awesome condition all round.

£2100 for quick sale.

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This car was imported a couple of years ago by a local mechanic as a present for his wife, before they separated.  It then spent a year and a half in his garage being buffed to perfection before I got him to register it for the UK and sell it to me.  I’ve owned the car since Nov 2009.

The car’s immaculate.  She’s got a genuine 45,000 miles on her and there’s not a spot of rust anywhere.  The sills, the underneath, the bodywork – all are original and unmarked, no dodgy repairs etc here.  It’s got tax and long MOT, sailed through with no advisories whatsoever.

She had a new blue roof fitted by the previous owner, which doesn’t leak and is still in perfect condition.  The G-Limited is a bit of a rareity, coming in Satellite Blue metallic, with two-piece blue Alcantara seats and a full set of underbody braces.

 

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Since I’ve had her either Mazdamender or myself have done the following:

  • Fully serviced, all new belts, radiator replaced, hoses replaced, water pump replaced.
  • Oil/filter changed every 3k miles with fully synth.  No HLA noise or hot tick!  Last service approx 1000 miles ago with Motul 8100 fully synth.
  • Electric windows stripped and serviced
  • New plugs and HT leads
  • Engine bay steam-cleaned!
  • Central locking and Thatcham Cat 1 alarm installed with certificate
  • Matte-finish instrument cowl
  • 15” freshly powder-coated Hockenheim wheels with Mazdaspeed center caps and great condition Rainsport II tyres all round.
  • MX5parts twin exit exhaust.  Sounds amazing, virtually new.
  • K&N 57i air filter plus heatshield
  • Front lip spoiler, stainless radiator grille
  • Gear turret oil and bush replaced with Redline MTL-90
  • New Rokkor coilovers fitted, set to a sensible but low ride height – no scrapes!
  • Lovingly striped by myself, the vinyl is easily removeable if not to your taste though.
  • Crystal front sidelights with LEDs, crystal side indicators and repeaters.  H4 light conversion and Philips Extrem bulbs, properly aligned!
  • IL Motorsports roll/style bar (whilst this isn’t a full Track Dog roll bar, this is one of the more robust ones that also stiffens the car)
  • Custom Revlimiter.net dials and all interior lighting converted to red illumination
  • Decent stereo and coaxial speakers, doors fully Dynamatted, sounds great
  • Lots of interior toys such as Joyfast shift knob, custom retro electric window switches (as designed by me and my guide to producing them got over 3000 hits!), retro door pulls, Nielex-style toggles, heavy-chrome hood latches, chrome door cups, vent rings, sleepy eyes button, cubby hole clock, decent car mats, LED interior lights, custom Momo Race wheel, alloy handbrake
  • LED third (optional flashing) brake light
  • Stebel airhorn.  Trust me, you’ll like this cheeky Italian number.
  • Once I’ve hoovered out a few crisp crumbs the interior is mint.
  • Bodywork in great condition, paint also in great condition.  No rusty bits, dings or other problems.  Underside of the car also in great condition as I jetwashed regularly in the two UK winters it’s seen.
  • Loads more I’m sure I’ve forgotten.
  • Comes with two keys and two alarm fobs

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I’m in Handforth, South Manchester.

I’d really like her to go to a good home – summer’s coming!  I don’t want to part her out and would prefer to sell to a fellow Nutzer…

 

 

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Poor-man’s harness? The CG Lock

20 04 2010

OK, I came across these via one of the Eunos forums.  I’m never going to fit a harness as I’ve not yet taken it on a track, and you look like a dick when you can’t reach the stereo controls without unclipping yourself.

I find myself bracing my knees against the transmission tunnel and the door cards when driving spiritedly – door handle digs into my knee and I’m generally spending effort keeping myself in the seat etc.

Anyway, I came across a reference to CG Locks.  A CG (Centre of Gravity) Lock is a simple mechanical device that you attach to the tang end of your seatbelt, and use to cinch the lapbelt tight across your lap when you’re going quickly.  This holds you in the seat, and leaves the top, shoulder part of the belt to move as normal.

They get decent reviews from advanced driving instructors etc – hmm, interesting…

www.cg-lock.co.uk/app/performance/

Basically, you bolt the device to the handle of the seatbelt tang – the bit that is attached to the seatbelt that you click into the retainer.  It doesn’t mark and it’s completely removable by unscrewing two allen bolts.  Takes about 5 minutes to fit, and in essence it consists of a mechanical spring-loaded roller that locks the lap and shoulder parts of the belt together so you can tighten the lapbelt – and it stays tight, holding you in the seat.

When you sit in the car, you pull across the seatbelt as normal, and with your left hand’s index finger press the spring-loaded lever on the mechanism to allow the belt to move normally and freely.  Push seatbelt in until it clicks as normal, then pull the upper strap going across your shoulder to tighten the lap belt.  Push down in your seat if you want a really snug fit.  Release the spring loaded lever, and you’re locked down.

Excuse the quality: cameraphone in the dark. I do all my mods in the dark, usually whilst drunk

So, what’s it like?

PRO: holds you really tightly in position.  All the subconscious bracing against the car that you do as you corner just…goes away.  Safer, better control, less effort.  All round it’s pretty damn good.  You can snug yourself in pretty tightly and whilst it’s not a harness, it’s proved excellent for a bit of back road thrashing (I can still hear the tink-tink-tink of my exhaust and brakes cooling down outside!).

CON: anyone who gets into your car will think “What the hell is this?” and have to ask you to explain that you need to press the lever on the CG Lock to allow the belt to fit them.

Overall: I like it.  I like it quite a lot.  They retail at about £50 but seem to be pretty commonplace on eBay for half that.  I can’t really see a downside – recommended.





Car bling

7 04 2010

What do you think?  Should I do it? 

A chance request for my car to model a very nice KG Works brace / harness bar so the seller could take pictures to accompany his eBay listing over the weekend.  As soon as it went on I wanted it to replace my existing perfectly serviceable but dull black steel brace.

Should I do it?





Eunos / MX-5 shift boot and turret oil replacement

7 04 2010

My 94 mk1 has had a stiffish shift since I’ve had it. Perfectly serviceable, but not all that exciting, and I thought it should probably be a bit slicker.

I’ve just fitted an mx5parts upper and lower boot kit, and replaced the turret oil with MTL Redline and *wow*. It’s like a bolt-action rifle now.

Quick guide:

Center console out: two screws at the front on either side, two screws under the ashtray, and two screws in the rear locker. Remove gearknob, and lift out the console. Disconnect the ashtray light and the electric window connectors and it’ll lift straight off: you need to wiggle the back of it out from the boot release.

You’ll be left with some underlay-like sound/heat insulation which lifts off, and the upper shift boot which *will* have holes in it. There’s a 10mm bolt on each corner – unscrew, and lift off the gearshaft. Use a stanley knife to cut the boot off if it doesn’t want to slide up and off the shaft.

Underneath, you’ll see the top of the lower shift boot. There are 3 10mm bolts to remove this, after which the entire gearlever will lift out. MAKE SURE YOU ARE IN NEUTRAL FIRST! There is a notch in the 12 o’clock that lines up with a peg in the turret.

Lift gear lever out, try not to drip oil everywhere and take it inside and clean it up. To remove the lower shift boot, again a stanley knife makes this easier. Make sure you retain the nylon/metal disk around the ball of the gearlever: metal side goes to the top. Remove this and the boot, and clean up with a rag. If you’ve got the mx5parts kit, then you’ll have a replacement nylon bush for the bottom of the gearlever – I nearly chickened out of replacing this but in the end found the easiest way to remove was to stand the lever vertically on a block of wood (kitchen chopping board in my case!), tilt the lever to 45 degrees and then hit the outer edge of the nylon bush with a blunt screwdriver. Clean up the ball on the end, and fit the new one by placing it under the gearlever and giving it a tap with a hammer.

Whilst it was out, as I’ve an 8 ball gearknob I wanted to polish the visible section of the gearlever between knob and gaiter to a mirror shine – out came the Dremel and some Autosol – looks lovely.

To fit the new bottom boot: spray the gearlever with silicone spray or oil. Push bottom boot on first, it goes top down as far as you can get it – over the thickest bit of the gearlever until it snaps to form a tight seal against the thinner bit near the base.

Next, clean out the old oil from the turret. To do this, I used a turkey baster. The kitchen features quite heavily in my DIY.

Suck the old oil out and dispose of. I replaced mine with some MTL Redline which is cracking stuff, but standard gearbox oil is probably fine. If anyone’s doing this and wants 100cc of Redline to do it with then give me a shout and I’ll post some out in a bottle or something – it’ll save you spending 18 quid on a litre, like I did.

Top up to about an inch from top of turret, and carefully refit the gearlever. Make sure the boot is rotated round carefully so that when the gearlever goes back in it’s not twisted. I panicked slightly when it didn’t go back in very readily – don’t worry, just be aware that the nylon bush on the end is a very tight fit and has to go in exactly straight otherwise it sticks. Make sure you’ve a light wipe of oil on the bottom boot seal and bolt it in with the three bolts. Check the gearbox selects gears correctly at this point.

Now take your new top boot and slide it over and down the lubricated gearlever, again making sure it’s not twisted. Push it down until the white nylon captive washer is flush with the slightly flared bit at the bottom of the gearlever’s thickest part. Do up the 4 10mm bolts, replace the insulation over the top, and replace center console.

In my case I took the opportunity to fit a new gear gaiter whilst I was at it, which looks great and took all of a minute to fit.

All in all this took about half an hour. The difference was immediately apparent – much less effort to shift, much more satisfying changes, and generally a brand-new feel to the gearchange. Best mod to date, I think.