Today Was a Good Day: Locks and Lights.

11 09 2010

Fixed a couple of small, annoying problems today.

The aftermarket central locking on my driver’s door failed a month or so ago, and I’ve not had time to strip it down and fix it.

I had a precious spare hour today so peeled off the doorskin and investigated.  Weird. How is this meant to work then?

Stripped the passenger side, and worked out that the actuator fitted is meant to be clamped onto the bar that operates the lock with a cast chunk of metal that screws onto the rod of the actuator, and the rod of the lock – I found the broken remains of this clamp in the bottom of the door, which also explained the rattle I’d noticed recently.

After half an hour of attempted bodging, I rang a few local car alarm places and headed off to Car And Home in Macclesfield.  £1 later, I had a new clamp.

Yay, central locking.

Next up: Sleepy Eye mod.

Had the kit for this (which is basically some wire and a non-latch toggle switch) for a couple of weeks, have connected it under the bonnet and proved it works but not got around to working out how to run the wire from inside the cabin to the engine bay.  I sorted it today.

I’m not sure why I want a sleepy eye switch on my Roadster.  I’m claiming cooling advantages to running with the lamps raised slightly but basically it’s because it’s there, OK?

Very simple addition, that I’ve wired into the top of the fusebox under the bonnet.  Hardest part was running the wire from the inside of the car to the engine bay – eventually accomplished by following the wiring from the fusebox inside the car to the engine bay using a coathanger and the wire taped to it very tightly with electrical tape.

With a bit of help from Rose, we got it sorted despite the rain.

I can now do this:

I mounted the toggle switch inside the car next to the HRW switch.  This *was* taken up by the blanking plate that also contains the wiring for the dash lights, so couldn’t just be removed.  Instead I took off the surrounding plastic, disconnected the plug and pushed it into the dash.  I then took a spare switch blank and drilled the hell out of it to hollow it out and mounted the toggle in that – up for normal, down for disconnected motors, and spring-press down to pop the lights.  Cool.

Advertisements

Actions

Information

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s




%d bloggers like this: